When it comes to dwarf hamster food, what you should really know is that there isn’t just one type of food that they can eat.

From specially formulated hamster mixes to fresh food, you basically just have to choose which ones would be able to provide the nutritional requirement your pet needs.

Dwarf Hamster Food Can Vary

Hamster mixes and pellets should make up the bulk of your hamster’s food as they come with more or less the complete nutritional requirements needed by your pet.

Fresh food is also a viable source of nutrients for your dwarf hamster but you should be careful when it comes to feeding your pet fresh food because not all of them are safe to eat. These should be given in moderation or as a treat for dwarf hamsters; at most twice a week.

Consider Water Content

When it comes to fresh food, experts advise hamster owners to feed their pets fruits with high water content. However, this doesn’t mean you should go overboard with feeding your hamster high-water-containing fruits because doing so might result in diarrhea – a disease that is all too common in the hamster world.

Consider The Possibility Of Diabetes

You should also watch how much sugary food you give your pet dwarf hamster because, unlike the Syrian variety, most dwarfs especially Campbells are prone to diabetes. Roborovski dwarf hamsters, however, are less likely to develop diabetes.

This is why fruits should be given sparingly to dwarf hamsters because they have high sugar content. Aside from fruits, some commercially available hamster formulas may also cause an imbalance in your pet’s blood sugar due to the same content, and to avoid this, you should specifically buy formulas exclusive to dwarf hamsters.

Safe to Eat

Dwarf hamsters can eat a variety of food but some are safer than most. Here is a comprehensive list of food that your dwarf hamsters would be able to eat without any risks to their health.

1. Specially Formulated Hamster Mixes & Pellets

This should be the main food group that you feed your dwarf hamster because it contains the essential nutrients your pet needs. Do not feed your dwarf hamster formulas made for other animals; otherwise, it might suffer from malnourishment.

While hamster seed mixes are appropriate for dwarfs, oftentimes they would pick only the ones they like and this could also lead to malnourishment as they would miss some of the nutrients in the seed mix.

The best option for your pet dwarf hamster would be pelleted food. One tablespoon of food per day would be sufficient and any more may motivate the dwarf hamsters to hoard their food. When this happens, you may think that your pet is eating all the food when in fact, it’s just hiding them.

2. Grains, Seeds, & Nuts

Whole grains make for a great healthy snack for dwarf hamsters. When it comes to cooked pasta, whole-grain rice, and wheat toast, make sure that they are cooled before you serve them to your pet.

You can also feed them nuts and seeds but only sparingly due to the high-fat content which can be very bad for your pet’s heart among other things.

3. Fruits

Fruits are also an ideal snack for dwarf hamsters but because they contain high sugar content, you should only give these to your pet in moderation – about twice a week at most, in order to reduce the risk of diabetes.

4. Vegetables

Vegetables are probably the best complimentary food for dwarf hamsters. If you’re going to feed them vegetables, go for the dark and leafy green ones because they contain the most vitamins and minerals needed by your pet.

You can feed your pet vegetables every day or every other day but only sparingly.

5. Protein Sources

Dwarf hamsters need protein too and despite being herbivores, there are times when they will eat various types of meat and other protein sources. However, just like with fruits and vegetables, they should be given in moderate amounts so as not to compete with the main food for dwarf hamsters which are the seed mixes and pellets.

Some Food Can Be Harmful Too

You should be really careful with the kinds of food you give your pet dwarf hamster. This is because some food contains substances that are harmful and detrimental to your pet’s health. Almonds, for example, contain cyanide which is poisonous to hamsters. Garlic, onion, and chocolate are also toxic to hamsters just as they are to cats and dogs.

Below is a table detailing the foods that dwarf hamsters can and cannot eat.

“Hamster Food List To Eat and Not To”

It is important to remember: proper care and feeding are the keys to the good health and the long life of the rodent. Under natural conditions, the animals do not live long, barely reaching one and a half years. The reason for this is a disease, poor nutrition, predators hunting hamsters. A calm home environment, absence of stress, disease prolongs life up to 3 years or more.

The opinion that Dzungarian hamsters can eat everything is wrong. Although they look like mice, they are not nearly as sturdy. Fatties are constantly gnawing, not refusing any food offered. But only high-quality food, the right menu will help to ensure a good mood for hamsters and keep them healthy. When starting a small rodent, the owners need to familiarize themselves with the rules for keeping a dwarf hamster, find out how to feed dwarf hamsters at home.

Basic rules for keeping Dzungarian hamsters
When composing a diet for animals, one should focus on their natural nutritional needs. Life in the steppe conditions adapted them to a low-calorie food. Nutritious, fatty, it will damage the digestive system: the Dzungarian hamster is prone to obesity, and sweets are the cause of diabetes. In a confined space, when the animal does not have the opportunity to move a lot, the diet of the Dzungarian hamster should be composed correctly, avoiding the appearance of excess weight. On the day, a hamster needs only a tablespoon of feed. The activity of the rodent is increased by frequent walks, outdoor games, and, of course, the wheel on which the animals like to run.

Wild individuals feed on seeds and grain. Collecting supplies in a burrow, they are sealed in it, feeding on dry food during the cold period. In spring and summer, the diet is more varied: berries, fruits, vegetables, herbs, insects, and smaller animals are used. The teeth of the Dzungarian hamster grow all their lives, so it is necessary to give them the opportunity to grind them down.

The teeth of the Dzungarian hamster grow all their lives, so it is necessary to give them the opportunity to grind them down.

The metabolism of a small glutton is fast, hamsters eat constantly. Starvation of the Dzungarian hamster should not be allowed, because of this, his health will become worse. But obesity will not do the hamster anything good either.

What products are required and allowed

The well-being of the pet is facilitated by competent content, a carefully selected diet.

What should be given to a Dzungarian hamster at home? Food must contain:

Dry feed (grain mixtures).
Juicy food: greens, vegetables, fruits, herbs, berries.
Animal proteins (lean meat, fish, insects, eggs).
Mineral stone, vitamins, tree branches, shrubs.
Dry food
Grain mixes form the basis of food for Dzungarian hamsters.

What cereals are needed:

corn,
oats,
barley,
wheat,
rye.
Shoots of cereal plants sprouted on the windowsill are useful.

You can give nuts, seeds:

walnuts,
cashews, hazelnuts,
peanut,
flax, sunflower, sesame, pumpkin seeds.
It is recommended to purchase ready-made industrial special brands from the pet store, including the necessary nutrients, the required vitamins, and mineral supplements. They are hard enough that Dzungarian hamsters can grind down teeth that grow throughout their lives. Pay attention to quality products from trusted manufacturers. As in any business, it is better not to buy cheap dry food of economy class.

The ready-made mixtures include peas, rolled oats, oats, corn, nuts, seeds. This package lasts for two months. Can be diluted with buckwheat, lentils, beans, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds.

Fruits, berries
Fresh fruits are given peeled, seeds should be removed – they contain poisonous, deadly substances. It is important to remember that most juicy fruits contain a lot of carbohydrates; it is often unacceptable to feed sweet to your pet. The diet of a dwarf mammal should contain no more than 5% sugars.

Few fruits are allowed. From the age of two weeks, you can give, for example:

Apple – cut into small wedges. Sour, unripe, spoiled fruits cannot be a rodent.
Pears are given a couple of times a week. Frequent use has a laxative effect.
Peaches, cherries, plums – every 7-10 days.
Strawberries, grapes – a limited amount.
Tropical fruits (banana).
The presented list can be supplemented with dried fruits. In winter, it is difficult to provide complete, vitamin-rich foods. It is worth preparing the fruits for future use by freezing or drying them. Dried bananas, dried apricots, figs, raisins, dates, previously soaked in water for 3-4 hours, are introduced into the menu. They are added to food in a small amount due to the high glucose content.

Vegetables

The low sugar content is favorable for feeding the Dzungarian hamster with vegetables. Given twice a week.

What is allowed:

Cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin.
Cabbage (broccoli, cauliflower).
Radish, carrots.
Tomato is rare.
Bulgarian (sweet) pepper – unlimited.
Green beans – young shoots of asparagus, green peas.
Green forage
Greens are collected far from the city limits (it has the ability to absorb harmful substances from the soil, air), highways, washed, dried.

Allowed:

Household herbs (dill, parsley (not allowed for nursing, pregnant women), lettuce, coriander, basil). Celery is limited, it contains a lot of liquid. The tops of carrots, beets will also be useful.
Wild plants (plantain, dandelion, nettle, clover, alfalfa, bamboo shoots).
Succulent feeds often contain pesticides and are thoroughly soaked for several hours. It is better if the greens are grown by the owners on their own, without the use of chemicals that can cause poisoning, cause the death of the pet.

Hay of alfalfa, timothy will be a good source of fiber, necessary for intestinal motility.

Tree branches
It is necessary to place branches of fruit and deciduous trees in the cage. They are required for grinding teeth. Before use, the branches are washed, boiled for about an hour, dried. Conifers cannot be used – they contain essential oils, resins.

What else should be given to Dzungarian hamsters
Other foods are important to maintain a good mood and well-being. These include:

Mineral stone.

Hard treats (dog biscuits) are given every seven days to grind down the incisors. If the teeth become excessively long, they can damage the palate.
Protein food (low-fat cottage cheese, yogurt, kefir, boiled rabbit, turkey, chicken, eggs, low-fat boiled fish, earthworms purchased at the pet store, butterflies, daphnia, Gammarus, grasshoppers, peeled shrimp. A Turkmen cockroach is ideal). Wild-caught insects are often contaminated with microorganisms that cause disease in rodents.
Clean, daily changed water, even if the animal drinks a little. The stagnant liquid is poured out. Filtered spring water will do. Protect the drinker from sunlight, which can cause algae to grow inside the container.
The feeder is washed regularly. Grain, dry food is poured every day. Learning to a new component is carried out gradually, starting with a small crumb. Throw away the leftovers. A small glutton is inclined to stockpile; eating spoiled food is fraught with poisoning.

In case of indigestion, the Dzungarians are given rice broth, which has an enveloping, fastening effect. Babies who find themselves without mother’s milk are supplemented with dairy-free formulas, ordinary cereals soaked in water, vegetable, meat baby puree without adding salt or sugar.

cute hamster
What can not be fed
Some foods used by humans are poisonous to animals. It is impossible to treat everyone without fear for the health of the rodent. The animal is small in size, an insignificant crumb will cause suffocation, intoxication, death.

What is forbidden for a Dzungarian hamster to eat:

Cabbage, beans, bread – cause fermentation, start the processes of putrefaction in the intestines.
Potatoes – Contains a lot of starch.
Spices – irritate the digestive tract.
Mint.
Mushrooms are hard food.
Onions, garlic, sorrel.
Honey, chocolate (rich in theobromine, which affects the cardiovascular system).
Sour berries: sea buckthorn, drumstick.
Raspberry – weakens.
Almonds – contain toxic cyanic, hydrocyanic acid.
Melons, watermelons – often processed with nitrates.
Fatty food.
Bakery products, pasta. Black bread – has high acidity, causes gas formation.
Milk, sour cream, cream, butter.
Sausage, sausages include prohibited soy, starch, spices.
Muesli, breakfast cereals – rich in sugar, harmful flavorings.
Exotic fruits – persimmon – are rich in astringents, tannins that cause constipation. Avocado (mass fat), pineapple, pomegranate, mango, kiwi, orange, lemon (acid).
Pits of apricot, peaches, cherries.
Unpeeled seeds, pasta – injure the cheek pouches of animals.
Brightly colored berries, fruits – cause allergic reactions. Watery eyes, redness of the skin, itching – a reason to refuse the product.
Fatty cheeses – contain an excess of salt, milk sugar – lactose, which is difficult for the stomach to digest.
Spices are rich in essential oils that cause allergies.
It is highly undesirable to treat an animal with food from the table, sweet, spicy, salty, flour, fried, flavored with spices, spices. Food from the refrigerator is prohibited, it must be at room temperature.

What is given to weakened, elderly individuals?
With age, the teeth of the animal become weak, food is difficult to chew. You need special, mashed, ground food. Chopped nuts, crushed peas, rye bread crumbs, rolled oats, baby food, cereals, puree without spices are suitable. It is impossible to refuse the grain component – cereals contribute to the activation, normal activity of the digestive organs. You can offer a grated fruit mixture, add medicines, vitamins to the trough with the prepared product. Human drugs cannot be given – their dosage and composition are destructive.

The pet’s menu needs to be diversified. You cannot constantly feed the same foods. Mono-diets are not allowed. It is good if dry, juicy, protein foods are present in the diet every day.
It is useful to give chamomile broth to sick, elderly pets. If the animal is weak, refuses to eat, the food is ground to a paste consistency, fed, and watered warm from a syringe without a needle.

The nutrition of a small mammal at home is entirely up to you. When living in an apartment, a pet needs a reasonably composed menu that includes vital components. Try to make a crumbs menu that includes a lot of fresh, healthy vegetables.

Treat your pet correctly, at the same time, without relying on his choice. Poisonous plants are laid in the feeder, the baby will eat without a doubt, he is illegible, omnivorous. He will have high-calorie food to taste. The pet will be happy to eat sweets. Remember: in nature, rodents do not receive such food, which means that there is no benefit in it.

The bowl is selected in accordance with the nutritional needs of the animal, it should be small, not allowing overfeeding, made of ceramic. This will not allow it to be gnawed or choked on parts of the dishes.

There is controversy over the need for various products. These are, for example, beets and radishes. In case of doubts about the usefulness, potential risk, fears for the existence of a pet, it is better to refuse, not to conduct experiments. There are many more useful and useful products.

If the animal was bought for children, adults should immediately explain to the kids the rules of keeping, proper feeding of the pet. Play with the animal, keep in constant contact. Then the life of your tiny funny friend will be joyful, happy, long.

That is why some new pet owners get surprised if they just bought their hamsters and then get a new litter just two weeks after.

It can be quite hard to differentiate the sexes of hamsters. That’s maybe why some pet stores, often mix male with female hamsters.

 This usually results in rapid breeding and a surprise to hamster owners. To reduce the fret, here’s a guide on how to care for pregnant hamster and their babies.

Abdominal Examination

If you notice that your hamster has put on some weight and an increase its appetite, it might be time to examine its abdomen. A pregnant hamster may show its bump typically 5 days prior to giving birth. A hamster’s nipples may be visible as well and will begin to show on its abdomen a week before birth.

Ensure that it is really pregnant and that the lump is not an illness such as a tumor, infection, or bowel issue. You could ask for help from your veterinarian to verify the pregnancy. This will make sure that it is not sick and may diagnose any problems early, if ever.

Accompanied by physical changes, pregnant hamsters are usually aggressive especially with other hamsters or with male species specifically. It is at this time that they should be separated to avoid fights. Other behavioral changes include hoarding food and building a nest using any materials available to them.

Breeding

You have to be aware that breeding hamsters is not easy and should be left to experienced breeders instead. If by any chance, you had an idea of starting a hamster breeding business because of your pregnant hamster, give yourself more time to think about it.

It has been known that there is a high possibility of genetic defects between various types of hamsters. It would be difficult to avoid these abnormalities and eventual deaths without knowledge of a hamster’s lineage prior to breeding. This is not recommended by animal experts.

You don’t want to be labeled as a reckless breeder and it would be heartless to take a risk in the lives of the hamsters and the pups. If you are serious about it, you have to learn a lot and ask yourself a lot of questions.

It is also not easy to sell hamsters to pet shops or online shops if you’re a private breeder. You should also be aware of the laws on selling hamsters in your state.

Caring for the Mother

Initially, provide extra tissue paper to the pregnant hamster to be used in their nest. This is advisable as it is soft enough to nestle newborn babies. It will also not be entangled with the pups that may cause accidental death. Aside from tissue paper, you may also offer unprinted paper or toilet paper for the nest.

Avoid holding the pregnant hamster during pregnancy and especially after giving birth. As mentioned, females are very aggressive and may bite you if you try to touch them or just be near their nest. This could also pose a threat to future newborns.

Try to provide a calm environment by using dim light or covering a part of its cage with a blanket. This will help her think that it is safe and will reduce its stress levels.

Pregnant hamsters still need their exercise so providing a wheel may help. Enough cage space is also essential for them to walk around to help their body systems during pregnancy.

Diet

A pregnant hamster would need more nutrients than normal, just like any other pregnant animal, to support the babies inside their womb. Primarily, pregnant hamsters need a high-energy diet to support litter development and breastfeeding.

Increasing its protein and fat intake is recommended like mealworms or cricket, says Dr. David Elbeze of PetCoach. Extra portions from other sources of protein are boiled eggs, boiled chicken, cereals, nuts such as walnuts and almonds, beans, corn, or wheat. Just be aware of the food that is easily spoiled because you need to remove it from the cage before they eat it.

If you were already feeding them pellet food, then a bit of an increase in their daily intake wouldn’t hurt. It will provide the energy they need to maintain their activeness. Maintain their food bowl at least half full daily.

The typical fruits and vegetables good for hamsters are also recommended to help their immune system. This will also increase the vitamins and minerals in the body that the fetuses also need for development.

A small amount of broccoli, cauliflower, endive, apples, and bananas may be given in moderation. Remember to remove the seeds or the skin prior to giving it to your mommy-to-be hamsters.

Just like in humans, calcium is also important for pregnant hamsters. You can provide it by serving them lean cheese or milk for bone development.

Assure that there is an adequate supply of fresh water in their cages daily. Most pregnant hamsters tend to be more thirsty than normal.

Using the “ad libitum” feeding system to your female hamster is important for a successful birth and a high rate of alive pups. This system will both nourish the females and help them hoard food for their future birth.

Expecting

When expecting a litter, it is important to clean the cage prior to the hamster giving birth. This is to help reduce their stress and that they will be able to give birth in a clean cage. This will also help reduce possible microorganisms inside the cage that may affect the newborn pups.

Since it is not ideal to be near the mother during pregnancy, your hands should not be inside the cage at least 3 days before they give birth. It is better to clean the cage immediately before that and leave it until the big day. Do take into consideration that you are not to clean their cage even after 2 weeks of giving birth.

The reason for this is to avoid having your scent on the nest and on the pups. Once a mother hamster smells a different scent on her babies, she might kill them for the litter’s overall safety.

The next thing to consider is removing the toys and the hamster wheel to prevent injuries that might happen to the babies. You also have to remove the sand bath and provide more beddings for comfort.

Father

At this point, it is better than the father hamster is removed from the cage. Once you are sure the female hamsters are pregnant, isolate them from other hamsters and start preparing their needs.

Gestation Period

This is the time interval from when the fetus develops and ends when the hamsters give birth. The gestation period differs for every breed but it is 16 – 22 days on average. To have an idea per breed, see below:

• Syrian Hamster: 16 days
• Winter White Hamster: 18 – 21 days
• Chinese Hamster: 18 – 21 days
• Russian Dwarf Hamster: 18 – 21 days
• Roborovski Hamster: 30 days

It is during this time that the mother hamster experiences many physiological, hormonal, and behavioral changes. It is best to reduce stress in their environment as much as possible by giving them space and avoid approaching their cages unnecessarily.

As the delivery closely approaches, the mother may be restless and may have vaginal bleeding so don’t be scared when you see red spots in the cage.

Homes

If the pregnancy was unplanned and a surprise, you have to consider if you will take care of the extra hamsters. If not, it is best to plan ahead how you will provide them new homes.

Interval Period during Birth

Expect the pups to be hairless, pink in color, blind, and deaf after birth. They will be depending on their lives entirely on their mother hamster to survive since they are very fragile.

A litter size on average is between 4 and 6 babies per birth, but it still largely depends on the hamster breed.

• Syrian Hamster: 4 – 12 babies
• Winter White Hamster: 4 – 6 babies
• Chinese Hamster: 4 – 5 babies
• Russian Dwarf Hamster: 7 – 8 babies
• Roborovski Hamster: 3 – 5 babies

Hamster labor usually lasts for 1 – 2 hours and has an interval period of 15 to 30 minutes in between pups. You’ll be able to see the female standing as the babies are being born. They will also be able to cut their umbilical cord. They usually take naps in between labors or may actively organize their pups in their nest.

The mother will clean her pups by eating the placenta that envelops the youngsters inside their womb. After giving birth, there will be blood spots due to the placenta so this is normal and not a source of worry. But if you observe severe bleeding, this should be considered as an emergency.

This is where the hoarding and the supply of food are critical. The mother hamster will be very tired and hungry after birth so make sure that she has enough food and water inside the cage. If she finds that there is not enough to feed her and the babies, she will resort to killing her babies then let them die thru starvation.

Just Leave Them Be

Make sure that you do not interrupt nor approach the cage right after birth. It is essential that you restrain from touching the babies for the next two weeks. The mother hamster may misinterpret the scent as a threat and may abandon its pups, or worse kill them. This defensive mechanism behavior is known as kronismus.

The baby hamsters are very small and even smaller for the dwarf hamster breed at around 1 inch long. They are very restless from day one and are just in a pile inside their nest.

Even if you see the newborn babies scattered in the cage, do not give in to the urge to care for them. Their mother will have the instinct to bring them back to their nest.

Keeping the Room Temperature

The room should be kept at a constant temperature, neither too hot nor too cold. Hamsters are usually comfortable at a temperature between 18 to 24^o Celsius (65 – 75^o Fahrenheit).

Little Hamster Diet

Check the cage if it has enough food at least twice a day without interrupting the mother and her babies. Do it as silently as you could. The mother will be nursing her babies for the first week so there’s no need to worry about them.

After a week, you may start sprinkling food around the cage because, at this time, the babies will start to explore on their own.

Wheat germ cereal is advisable for baby hamsters so you may scatter it where the babies usually go. Millets are also good for pups even for those less than 10 days old.

Also, put extra water bottles and lower them down in case the pups are old enough to drink from them. Avoid using water bowls as the babies may drown while drinking. If you think they’re not getting enough water in their system, add in celery and cucumber in their diet.

Mortality

A 10-day old hamster baby has a high chance of surviving, so it is critical that you only let the mother take over the pups for the first two weeks. There is a high mortality rate of pups when you touch the nest or the babies themselves.

Nursing Abandoned or Orphaned Pups

Sadly, it is possible that a mother hamster may be killed after giving birth due to complications. If this happens, you would have to nurse the pups yourselves. This is pretty tricky and requires a lot of time and attention from you.

If the pups are 12 – 14 days old, the chance of surviving is higher with your care and nourishment. Clean the cage by this time and ensure that there is enough bedding to keep them warm. You may also use a heating pad under the cage to manage the temperature. It is important that a well-balanced diet is provided for their early years especially without their mom.

Some enthusiasts suggest a surrogate mother for 8-day old hamsters and below. The regretful side in this option is that it is rarely successful. If the surrogate mother finds out that there is something wrong, she will dispose of them.

If there are no other options left but for you to feed them, you will be needing a milk replacer. You have to feed them using a dropper but not forcefully. It is a good sign once they are able to survive until they are able to eat solid foods. A good milk replacement would be Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR) powder. If this is not available, you may opt to use baby formula or diluted evaporated milk.

Overall Cleaning

If the pups are more than two weeks old, this is the best time for you to clean their cages once again. It will be at this time that the mother wouldn’t care less anymore if your hand is inside their cage. Don’t forget to put in an extra set of bedding again for the mother and her pups.

Petting the Baby Hamsters

At two weeks and above, you may now be able to hold the baby hamsters without putting them at risk. It would be good to start it early for them to be familiar with humans and socialize early on. It is still safe to be wary of the mother when you try to hold the pups. Those who are not well-socialized may not take it easy.

Be careful in handling baby hamsters as they can startle you by squeaking suddenly then jumping off. This could potentially hurt them. They are very quick albeit their size.

Quiet Environment

The first month for the mother and her pups is critical so it is safe to still put them in a quiet and calm environment. Sudden, loud noises may induce a panic attack on the mother hamster, which in turn, might kill her young.

Maintain the stress-reduced place from pregnancy to ensure the safety of the litter. The mother goes back to her normal behavior only after weaning the babies.

Raising the Baby Hamsters

Baby hamsters grow very rapidly. In a span of 4 – 6 weeks, they can usually reach their sexual maturity. Imagine the pups during their development stage:

• Day 1 to 3 – they will be born naked and pink. You can usually see the milk in their stomachs while they’re feeding on their mothers. They are quite the transparent creatures at birth.
• Day 4 to 5 – a dark covering of fur will start to appear especially for the breed with darker varieties. The ears will also start to open up by this time. Some markings will also start to show by the fifth day.
• Day 6 to 8 – most pups will start to explore in the cage. This is also the time where they would look like real hamsters already. It is also during this time that they’ll start to take interest in solid food.
• Day 13 to 15 – their eyes will now start to open. After opening, they will be able to explore more so the cage should be cleaned before weaning. They will also be able to drink water on their own from the sippers during this time.
• Day 16 to 21 – the mothers will be able to nurse the pups up until this week. They will also be able to eat food properly at this age.
• Day 21 to 28 – the mothers would already have lost interest in them since the babies can already take care of themselves. Though some breeds may tolerate them a bit longer, it would be better to make them ready to leave their mothers.

Sexing

In order to determine the sex of the hamster babies, hold one firmly and lift it upright with their backend visible to your eyes. Look at the genital area and observe the proximity of the anus and genital opening. Females have a closer distance between the anus and genital opening. Male hamsters would be the opposite and would be separated by a distance equal to your forefinger.

If you try to check their gender at five weeks of age, the male testes will naturally fall down and form two distinct lumps on each side of the anus.

Territorial Creatures

Hamsters are solitary creatures by nature. They are very territorial so it would be good to separate them as early as possible to prevent violence. It is very common for hamsters to attack one another when kept in one cage.

Understanding their Personalities

It would be good to have an idea about the personality of some hamster breeds before weaning. The Syrian hamsters, by any means, should be separated as early as 4 weeks of age and should be placed in individual cages. This is because they tend to hurt or eventually kill another hamster in one cage. They are more territorial compared to other breeds.

Some say that dwarf hamsters can be paired, but it is recommended that they are introduced to one another at a young age. If that’s not the case, it would be better to also separate them from one another.  Even if they are more social than Syrian hamsters, it is still better to be safe than force a living condition that could result in injuries.

Vet Check-up

The best time to get your new litter for a veterinary check-up would be 1 month or more after birth. At this time, the mother is already stable and you can now freely handle the new babies. This is especially applicable if you observe something strange from one of the pups or even the mother herself.

Weaning

Weaning is the process of gradually introducing other food aside from the mother’s milk. For the hamsters, this is also a good time to separate them to avoid fighting.

It is important that during weaning you also separate the males from the females. They can reproduce at a fast rate due to their early puberty that starts at 2-18 days after weaning. You should always be aware of the reproductive system of your hamsters as responsible pet owners.

Observe the pups if they are ready to be weaned from their mother. If you think that some are still weak to be away from their mother, you may leave them for another week. But you have to keep an eye on them as much as possible.

It is advisable that you are able to adopt them out when they reach their 7^th week. Ensure that the new home they’re going to would be the best for them and that they don’t end up as abandoned pets.

Extra Wheels and Water Bottles

If you’re planning to take in all the newborns, prepare your place to have additional running wheels, water sippers, food bowls, more toys, toilet paper rolls, and proper cages. A proper cage should be a minimum of 24 inches long and 12 inches wide, especially for aquarium-type cages according to The Humane Society of the United States. Review the different types of cages that are proper to the breed that you own.

You have to be ready before the weaning period. This is also applicable to your food inventory since you have more mouths to feed.

Young Mothers

If you’re planning to take in all the newborns, prepare your place to have additional running wheels, water sippers, food bowls, more toys, toilet paper rolls, and proper cages. A proper cage should be a minimum of 24 inches long and 12 inches wide, especially for aquarium-type cages according to The Humane Society of the United States. Review the different types of cages that are proper to the breed that you own.

You have to be ready before the weaning period. This is also applicable to your food inventory since you have more mouths to feed.

Young Mothers

More often than not, if a hamster becomes a mother at a young age, it usually results in an abandoned litter. This is because it is too young and inexperienced to even care for itself. That is why the environment is crucial to pregnant hamsters specifically for first-timers.

Zealousness

Prepare to be devoted once again to the new members of your family. Take care of the young hamsters as you do with the adult hamsters. Living with more family members under one roof will encourage fun and relieve your stress as long as precautions are taken seriously. They are such adorable, little creatures that will amaze you as they grow further.

This is because Syrian hamsters, also known as Teddy Bear, Standard, and Fancy hamsters, originally live in dry, arid places, particularly at the fringes of the desert between Northern Syria and Southern Turkey.

By nature, they are hoarders, and among their stock are fruits that tend to get fermented because of the weather and because they do not consume their stock right away. They have large livers which help them consume their fermented stock.

Origins

The Syrian hamsters were first mentioned by explorers in 1839, but these little furballs were not successfully acquired until a century later – in 1930, in Aleppo, near the Syrian Desert. From there, the puppies (as baby hamsters are called) were taken to the University of Jerusalem.

Of a dozen caught, however, only three of survived; but these were able to breed. Their descendants were taken to France, then to England in 1938, and then to the United States. It is said that all golden hamsters are descendants of the puppies of 1939 except for those brought by travelers and military men who have been in the Syrian desert region.

Today, the Golden hamsters are endangered species in the wild. Their numbers have been greatly reduced because humans have converted their natural habitat into farms and other human settlements. Fortunately, these hardy little balls of fur have been successfully bred, raised, and domesticated through the years.[middle1]

Appearance and Lifespan Of Syrian Hamsters

As one of their names suggests, Syrian hamsters are usually gold, with patterns of brown and black. Breeding, however, has produced in recent years other colors such as all-black, blonde, cinnamon, cream, dilute, dominant spots, and three types of gray.

Syrian hamsters tend to span 5-7 inches and weigh around 120-125 grams when they reach adulthood. They have pockets that extend up to the shoulders which they fill with food that weighs up to half their weight.

In the wild, they can live for 2-3 years. But in the safer confines of a home, they can live up to 3-4 years.

Personality

Golden hamsters are crepuscular-nocturnal creatures so their active periods are during dusk onwards. They are docile and can be good pets for children, although the American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) recommends that only children 6 years old and above and with adult supervision are allowed to keep Syrian hammies as pets.

They are also trainable. What is important is good trust enforcement. If properly trained, you may be able to make your hammy respond and approach you just by just calling its name.

Syrian hamsters, however, are highly territorial. Fights break out if there is more than one in a cage. They are also particular with their nap time. Golden hammies have a tendency to bite if someone wakes them up and handles them when they are asleep.

These Teddy Bears are also inquisitive. So if your pet hamster is cranky enough to bite you but you need to handle or get it transferred, you may introduce it to a jar. Hamsters, no matter how grumpy they are, will still jump into a jar and stay in there if shown to them.

Before Having a Syrian Hamster for a Pet

It is important to check firsthand if your state or local area supports getting hamster pets. Hawaii, for example, bans hamsters of any breed. This is because Hawaii has a temperature and climate similar to its natural habitat and any escaped pet of its kind has a high chance to breed, multiply, and cause damage to crops.

Hamsters, after all, are seed hoarders and crop foragers and like to dig holes underground for their hoard. Additionally, since they are rodents, they may easily contract rabies and other dangerous diseases if they live in the wild.

Outside the United States, highly agricultural countries like New Zealand and Australia also ban having hamsters as pets because they have already enough local fauna that trouble their farmers and their crops. The introduction of foreign species of animals – especially if a couple gets to escape the wild and breed – may threaten the current existing ecosystem.

Getting a Syrian Hamster

A Syrian hamster’s price in the market ranges between $5 and $20, depending on its identifying characteristics as well as the breeder.

You may also adopt a hamster from a shelter, but the price does not vary much from bought ones. In exchange, however, you are assured that the hammy you get has been well taken care of, plus you can ask the shelter for advice on taking care of the hamster. You can also easily acquire hints on any quirks your new hammy has.

You may need, however, to look out for some commercial breeders and pet shops that disregard breeding for health, temperament, and their breeding hammy’s lives. Check how they handle their hamsters with the following criteria:

• Do they mix their hamsters in one cage?

This includes whether they mix in one container different breeds, various ages, different sexes, or even similar sexes. Syrian hamsters cannot be put together unless they are still unweaned puppies since this breed is highly solitary.

Additionally, mixing sexes will result in high possibilities of getting pregnant hamsters with random genetic makeup.

Young hamsters must not be kept together with older ones. This will lead not only to bullying and fighting but also to the development of nasty temperaments among the younger generation.

• Will they allow you to handle the hamster you are interested in?

Hamsters with temper issues can be difficult to handle. If the shopkeeper or assistant hesitates to let you handle a certain hammy, it may be that the Teddy bear you wanted maybe more of a grumpy tiny bear than a hammy.

• Is it playing and eating? Is its fur complete, fluffy, and well-conditioned? Are its teeth straight and not overgrown? Are its toes and nails complete and not overgrown?

Check if the hamster looks jolly and well enough. Straight teeth, an even and complete fur, and complete toenails are signs of good health that are easy to spot. There are other wellness indicators you can check out but in the meantime, fur, teeth, nails and toes, and activity are the quickest way to check.

The tendency with unscrupulous breeders and shops is they disregard their breeding doe’s (the female hamster) time to “breathe” between pregnancies which will affect not only its health but also the number of nutrients they can pass on to their puppies. Not only will this lessen their puppies’ health quality, it will also lead to nasty genes being passed on.

Handling Basics

Congratulations! Now that you have finally gotten yourself a Golden hamster, have your little Teddy settle first for 24 hours before our first home handling.

Please take note that the first time you or anyone handle your hamster it has to be done close to the floor and with gentle hands. If your little furball gets used to frequent and gentle handling, it will learn to respond to you peacefully.

A typical way of grasping a Teddy bear hammy comfortably (for both you and the hamster) is to hold around its belly with your thumb and third finger. You can also let the hammy stand freely in your two hands cupped together. You can also allow it to walk on your palms to allow it to slowly bond and feel comfortable with you.

Syrian hamsters, though docile, can be cranky at times, particularly if forcibly roused from sleep. They tend to bite those who bring them trouble. Although their biting is at the front, hamsters have poor eyesight so they can only see up to six inches. Additionally, and for some reason, they are also less likely to bite bare hands than those who hold them gloved.

Health

You may wish to have your hamsters vaccinated especially for anti-rabies but there is actually no proper vaccine for hamsters which is why vets do not administer them. Using non-hamster vaccines may be harmful to these rodents because of the anatomic and antibody differences.

On the other hand, hamsters are hardy indoor pets, so there really is no harm in not having them vaccinated.

This does not mean, however, that you just leave your hammy be – Syrian hamsters still need clean food, water, and the environment regularly. Do not put their cages in places of direct sunlight, unstable temperature, plenty of air current, or close to wet areas.

Direct sunlight can be unhealthy for their skin and may dehydrate them, while unstable temperature and high humidity can be good breeding grounds for microbes that can make your hammy sick.

Syrian hamsters thrive in ideal temperatures between 90 °F (32 °C) and 68 °F (20 °C). Any lower – like 40 °F (5 °C) – and the hamster will hibernate. Hamsters have a torpor state that can last up to ten days. If your hammy appears lethargic or weak, consult your vet as soon as possible.

A hamster’s front teeth have to be well-maintained using gnaws and chew toys. These incisors continuously grow among adults. Lack of maintenance will make it difficult for them to eat. Have a veterinary surgeon trim those teeth overgrowths if and when necessary.

Your Golden hamster’s non-physical needs can be taken care of by giving it adequate toys – just a couple inside the cage at a time. Toys are not only sources of good exercise to keep the furball from getting obese, but they are also good for stimulating and maintaining your Teddy bear’s natural instincts, as well as to keep them out of boredom.

Additionally, give your Syrian hamsters enough sleep time and do not place them near areas with high-frequency sounds and loud noise such as television sets as these can irritate and stress out your hamster.

Healthy Syrian hamsters have the following characteristics; the first half of which has already been mentioned when you first checked out your hammy:

• Free movement, no staggering or stiffness; not ill or lethargic
• Complete, clean, and not overgrown nails and toes
• Straight and not overgrown teeth
• Clean under the tail; no sticky poopy mass
• No parasites or bald fur patches
• Not flaky, red, or dry skin
• No lacerations or wounds
• Clean nose with no discharge
• Bright and clear eyes
• Smooth and clean ears
• Body neither bloated or bony
• Almost silent with no wheezing breath on the chest

Should you find any changes in your hamster contrary to the ones mentioned in the list, consult your vet right away. If your Golden hamster has other hamster companions in the house (in separate cages, of course), make sure that your sick hamster is quarantined in a separate room.

Do not let any other pet approach the sick hamster as well to avoid the spread of any disease.

Food, Water, and Diet

Syrian hamsters are omnivorous. In the wild, their staple is composed of mixed seeds, grains, fruits, leafy greens, and other edible plant materials they forage through the evening. Occasionally they hunt insects for protein. And when the weather goes really bad that they barely have water and nutrients to partake they practice coprophagy or eating their own poop.

• Diet Proportion

As domestic pets, Syrian hamsters are to eat a proper diet proportion of about 20% protein, 4.5% fat, about 7% fiber, and the rest – carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals from fruits, crops, and vegetables. A basic menu consists of hamster mixes like Kaytee Forti-Diet Pro Health Hamster & Gerbil Food and Kaytee Fiesta Gourmet Variety Diet Hamster & Gerbil Food; 7-10 months old puppies may already be given food pellets.

Teddy bear hammies may also eat meat in the form of mealworms, crickets, small slices, or servings of egg (either hard-boiled or scrambled), as well as very occasional treats of pasteurized yogurt (at least once a week) or cottage cheese (in shreds only and only once every other week at most).

How much is a Golden hamster’s usual meal amount if converted to spoonfuls? A mixed diet of vegetables and meat products has to be at most a teaspoon a day in order to keep them from becoming unhealthy fat.

• Precautions

Dairy products have to be tested in small bits for lactose intolerance before feeding them in hamster-regular sizes. In addition, all food served must contain no chive, onion, or garlic, as these contain toxins that could cause your hammy anemia. Excessive amounts of peanut are also poisonous for your hamster, while feeding them iceberg lettuce may damage their liver.

If you opt to give other types of food, make sure that the treat you give is neither sticky nor sharp. A hamster’s salivary glands can be switched on and off so its cheek pockets are not always wet to keep the food undigested longer. Giving them sticky and sharp food could injure their cheeks.

• Vitamin E

Vitamin E is especially important since the two common illnesses among hamsters – mastitis and anemia, are caused by this deficiency. This nutrient is especially important for pregnant hammies to prevent them from giving birth to stillborn pups. Deficiency in this vitamin may end up with the mother doe reabsorbing her babies instead of giving birth to them normally.

Vitamin E may be found in spinach, broccoli, sweet almond, and sunflower seeds. Avocado is also included in the list, but it is not advisable because its calorie is too high and its stickiness may damage your hammy’s cheek pockets.

• Serving the Food

Food may be served in a ceramic or stainless steel dish for hygienic purposes but the bowl has to be cleaned every day of poop, wayward beddings, uneaten food scraps, and other debris. You may also hand-feed your hammy but this requires training since your hamster may accidentally bite.

To practice its instinctive foraging skills, you can also serve food using a spoon where it can paw and pick the food from.

• Water

Golden hamsters need about 10mL of distilled water for every 100g of their body weight, but nursing does will need more. In addition, the water has to be placed in a bottle properly propped in the cage so that your hammy need not stretch to drink from the spout.

Pregnancy, Birthing, and Nursing

A young Syrian doe is already mature and ready to mate at 8-12 weeks. Its estrus is every 4 days, unless pregnant. Pregnancy is short – on the 10^th day after mating, does already show signs such as protruding teats and slightly swollen builds.

Female Golden hammies can give birth on the 16^th day, although on rare occasions they can give birth on the 17^th or 18^th. After birthing, they can get pregnant on the same day. There are rare cases, however, when the Syrian does do not give birth even after the 18^th, which could possibly be due to no labor, difficulty in birthing, or even phantom pregnancy.

A diet of high-protein foods such as boiled or scrambled egg, wheat germ, cheese, and tofu as well as foods rich in Vitamin E like broccoli is recommended for pregnant Syrian hamsters. This diet should be maintained even when they are already nursing their puppies. Avoid raw beans since these may be toxic.

Because Syrian hamsters are delicate during pregnancy, minimum handling should be done starting on their estrus. Exercise wheels should be taken off their cages before birthing until they have already weaned their puppies. The cages should also be cleaned and good bedding must be put in place a couple of days before the puppies are expected to be born.

Always check your Golden hammy doe – with minimum or no handling, of course – for any changes in normal health, illnesses or difficulty of birthing.

Hammies are usually okay if they do not give birth after 18 days of pregnancy because the unborn is reabsorbed by their body. But if you see any signs of birthing difficulties and drastic health changes during gestation, consult your vet immediately so that the vet may help induce birth if it is not difficult or impossible.

Cage

A good Syrian hamster cage is not only your pet’s den. It is also its personal territory. The cage size has to have at least 450 sq.in. (2903.22 sq.cm.) of free floor space, with a distribution of about 23.23in. 14.17in. x 9.85in. (59cm. x 36cm 25cm.), and must be made of a plastic storage bin or medium glass tank.

If ever you opt for a portion of the cage to have bars, the gap between bars must not exceed 12mm or the hammy will get stuck, if not escape.

Your cage should have the following to keep your Teddy bear happily occupied and safely sheltered:

Substrate or bedding – your Syrian hamster’s bedding – on which it sometimes likes to burrow on – is also its litter. So a quality substrate has to be absorbent, rodent-safe, super soft but not fluffy, not scented, and dust-free.

Shredded, unprinted paper may be good temporary bedding but it will not be able to properly absorb all the stinky urine and poop your hammy disposed of so go for wood shavings – but not the ones from your carpenter since they still have dust. Hamsters also gnaw and chew on their bedding so do not use wood shavings of pine, cedar, and other evergreens as they are toxic to your hammy.

Avoid fluffy fibers for substrate since they may strangle or injure your pet. Corn cob and cat litter are also discouraged since they may give your Teddy gastrointestinal problems. Newsprints and other printed papers are also a no-no since the ink could be toxic.

Aspen, however, is a good natural shaving if dust is removed, but if you wish softer substrates, you may use Carefresh, and Kaytee Clean and Cozy. To remove any mites, bugs, and other parasites, freeze the substrate for at least 48 hours in the freezer, then defrost before use.

Clean the cage at least weekly, including everything that your pet has touched. Change your hammy’s beddings regularly as well to remove all the stink. Sift through them every day to check and remove food hoards and scraps that would potentially rot in a short time.

Shelters or Houses – Syrian hamsters are burrowers and appreciate a sense of privacy when they sleep so they may either burrow themselves in their beddings or sleep in tiny houses in peace. Hamster-friendly materials like alfalfa, certain types of wood, and coconut shells are good shelters for the Teddy bear since they give privacy and safety to gnaw.

Ladders, climbing blocks, tunnels, hanging bridges, and walkways – these bits and pieces of “furniture” are essential for your Syrian hamster in their cage as these simulate obstacles in the wild. Wood ladders and climbing blocks have to be safe for hamster gnawing. You may use bird ladders and climbing blocks as substitutes provided they are not the dreaded evergreens.

Hemp, cotton, and sisal are good and organic materials for rope for your hammy to swing and climb on, but make sure that they are thick enough. The shape and surface of the hangers must not be frayed, too sharp, or warped enough to entangle or even injure your Teddy bear in any way. Check these swings from time to time and replace worn-out ropes.

Toys – items like hangers and other “furniture” toys, help the Syrian hamster simulate its life in the wild while still staying at the safety of indoors. A hamster’s cage must have at least 2 toys at a time to prevent overcrowding and overwhelm your pet. Here are some of the toys your pet may enjoy:

• Exercise wheel – this is a must for your Golden hamster since it lets your pet run as if it was foraging in the wild.

An ideal exercise wheel for a young Teddy bear is around 8 inches in diameter. As it grows older, you may have to change the size to 10 or 12 inches to adjust to the hamster’s size. The hammy must not curve its back when doing exercise as this will give it back pains and spine problems.

The wheel must be made of solid material. Wire or mesh wheels can get your hammy’s feet stuck and may cause it a condition called bumblefoot.

Recent exercise wheels are shaped like cars and allow your pet to run around the room and even follow specific tracks.

• Hamster Ball – hamster balls are a more mobile version of your exercise wheel, but the diameter size has to be considered, too. Hamster balls allow your pet to explore the entire room of the house, although still with supervision. The running and foraging are taken to a higher level as your hammy gets to quench its inquisitive nature more.
• Play Pen – Exercise playpens are mini fences where your pet can play and explore in under your watchful eye. It can also serve as an open training area. Its portability will allow you to play with your Syrian hammy outdoors, as well as in combination with toys like hamster balls to keep it from going too far.
• Gnaws and chews – Syrian hamsters love to gnaw since their teeth constantly grow. By doing so their teeth also get trimmed, otherwise, they will need the help of vet surgeons.

Wood gnaws, chew sticks, and gnawing balls are a good way to keep Golden hamsters safely chewing. Cedar, pine, yew, and oleander are definitely not good materials; but organic wood gnaws from pesticide-and-chemical-free fruit trees like pear and apple are delights.

Willow ball rings, balls, and tunnels intended for other small rodents are also good chews for Syrian hamsters. Those made from seagrass, loofah, rattan, and water hyacinth are also recommended.

Some Golden hamsters do not like to chew on wood and may even skip another plant material gnaws. This is fine as hammies also have their own quirkiness. Instead, you can provide them with hard hamster treats from stores and even non-flavored dog biscuits.

These are also chew-safe sturdy cardboard paper towel tubes and toilet paper roll tubes that you can let them play and gnaw on safely. Some chews are made of mineral blocks and pumice but these have no fiber or nutrients for your hamster, so they are not that necessary; unless your hamster finds these preferable over all the other types of gnaws you provided.

Monitor your Golden hamster’s gnawing activities and always check the material of the chew or gnaw you are planning to buy. Should there be any sudden stop of your hammy’s gnawing habit, consult your vet immediately.

• Plastic toys – tubes and tunnels are usually made out of plastic so you will have to take care that your Teddy bear does not chew any of these as these can make it sick. If you notice its preference for chewing plastics, remove the toy or cage part immediately and have it replaced with a safer alternative.

Bathing and Digging Sand – Syrian hamsters, or any hamsters for that matter – are not supposed to take water baths because not only they are prone to getting colds, they also tend to lose their protective natural oils.

Instead of water, hamsters take occasional sand baths – unless you need to spot-remove some toxic substance which you also have to do somewhere warm like near a heater. For sand baths, clean and sterilized sand or chinchilla dust baths are okay. The sand, which is placed in a deep dish or basin, will help the Teddy maintain its fur and it also allows the little furball to dig, burrow, and have fun.

Hamsters belong to the Rodentia order of the Mammalia class and as such, they usually thrive on a diet of seeds, grains, nuts, and occasionally fruits and vegetables. Hamsters in the wild also eat small animals such as frogs, lizards, and insects.

A pet hamster’s diet should consist of at least 17-19% protein, 4-7% fat, and 6-15% fiber. The healthiest foods that a hamster can eat contain the right amount of all three of these nutrients.

Is Peanut Butter Healthy or Safe for Animals?

Peanut butter is a treat that a lot of owners love to give their pets. Peanuts provide Vitamin B, Vitamin E, and Niacin to the body. What the majority don’t know is that many commercial peanut butter contains Xylitol, which is a sugar-free synthetic sweetener.

This chemical is safe for human consumption but extremely toxic to animals. Just to give you an idea of how dangerous Xylitol is for other pets; it’s 100 times as toxic as chocolate to dogs.

The reason that Xylitol is so potent for animals is that it is very quickly assimilated into the bloodstream, which stimulates the release of insulin from the pancreas. Because of this rapid influx of insulin, the blood sugar level in the animal can rapidly decrease within an hour.

Even small amounts of Xylitol ingested by dogs or cats can cause seizures, liver failure, or death. Symptoms of Xylitol poisoning can include vomiting, weakness, difficulty walking, lethargy, and tremors.

Thankfully, there has been an increase in awareness about Xylitol in the past years, with many commercial manufacturers opting to use a different sweetener for their peanut butter. Therefore, it’s safe to say that animals can eat peanut butter as long as it’s Xylitol-free.

But Can I Feed It to My Pet Hamster?

So, we’ve learned that peanut butter that has Xylitol is toxic for dogs and cats – but what about hamsters? Does Xylitol have the same effect on them as it does on the other animals?

Here’s the answer.

As of this writing, the effects of Xylitol on hamsters and other small animals have not been well-documented.

However, that doesn’t mean that your hamster has to miss out on eating peanut butter. It simply means that, just like with dogs and cats, you’ll need to avoid brands that have Xylitol just to stay on the safe side. 

For your reference, we’ve included some of the brands that you should stay away from:

• No Cow® (formerly D’s Naturals)
• Go Nuts, Co.
• Krush Nutrition
• Nuts ‘N More®
• P28 Foods

So yes, hamsters can eat peanut butter as long as it’s Xylitol-free. But with Xylitol now out of the way, let’s take a look at some other ways that peanut butter can affect hamsters negatively.

Hamsters have small pouches on the insides of their cheeks which they use to gather and transport food. Since peanut butter is very sticky, it can easily get trapped inside these pouches and cause severe problems for the hamster.

To avoid this, never give them plain peanut butter directly from your finger or a spoon. 

A good way to feed them is to smear it on a stick and let them munch it off the stick. You can also mix it with slices of fruit and put it on water-soaked bread.

Another factor to keep under consideration is food allergies. Many mammals are prone to having allergic reactions to human food, so if it’s your first time feeding your hamster peanut butter, give a very small amount to test.

Peanut butter contains high amounts of lectin, which in humans, can potentially cause health issues such as arthritis. Simply regulate the amount of peanut butter that you feed your hammy on a daily basis and you should be fine.

Summary

As always, moderation is the key. While you may not be able to resist the adorable look on your hamster’s face while they snack away on a generous helping of peanut butter, be aware of the potential consequences that such indulgence can have. Read the labels on bottles of peanut butter when grocery shopping and check if they’re Xylitol-free.