Hamsters need SPACE. No vertical space either (multi-story cages).

They need something they can lean against, burrow into, breathe and not chew on.

I have always used aquariums.

Every time I go to the local pet store for supplies, I always see this family. Dad just bought the kids a hamster, and they have the cute little cage. Oh, how nice it will be to see the hamsters walking through the tubes like in the movies!

I say to myself: “Give them a week”.

Nobody ever keeps this shit.

Bad quality. She is chewed in a day (indicating stress). Tiny. Nothing about them is positive. Hamsters get rid of stuffed animals as they dig a burrow. It ends in a mess.

Even if you buy more than one and tie them together, you end up spending two to three times as much money as you could be, all for a handful of shoddy products.

Take an aquarium over 20 gallons.

Listen to this. I had a small Chinese dwarf hamster named Macy. It was about 5cm long. An ignorant person would think giving him as much space as me is crazy.

We had an old 150 liter aquarium. So we put it to use. This thing could have held a hamster three or four times its size very comfortably.

Macy ended up living three times her life expectancy, until she was four years old.

Why ?

• To get to her food, her water, her wheel, or whatever, she had to run or walk a distance. Basins are inherently longer and wider than regular hamster cages, requiring it to exercise to get where it wants.
• More room to forage, dig, sleep and burrow. This means the tank didn’t get dirty as quickly, she was able to dig around the tank for a long time (exercise), and she felt more relaxed. She could stretch out and change where she was (change is good!). No tightness or entrapment.
• The larger space allowed dust to break up more quickly and air to circulate more cleanly. Almost any type of burrow material you use, whether it’s shavings, lint, or all-natural, organic, gluten-free pine, gives off dust. In a small aquarium or a small cage, it is stagnant and can cause respiratory problems.
• She didn’t really need to be changed. I mean, literally. Clean the “pee corner” and it’s done.
• She was discouraged from escaping. The space was large, airy and bright. She could do whatever she wanted and had room for lots of toys, chews and physical activities. It eliminates the feeling of “I need to get away from it all” and boredom. Even if she wanted to, she wouldn’t have succeeded; a closed aquarium is much better than a cage when it comes to potential escape. I suggest putting something heavy on your aquarium, though.

Small creatures need a big space. It’s essential.

They need to exercise more. They use the toilet area more.

I strongly believe that its long life is attributed to its huge living space.

Nothing I did outside of that would have made him live longer.

Normal diet, normal food levels. Normal water, no extra vitamins or supplements. Normal wheel, normal toys.

More space is better. You can put more activity in it, the hamsters can do more in it, and it encourages them to do lots of beneficial things. the initial investment is worth it.

Hamsters are small rodents, there are about 24 species in total. Some of them are kept as pets. Hamsters have several differences from other rodents: small size, short tail, short legs, and small ears. Now about the duration of life.

How long do hamsters live?

The life span of a hamster is much shorter than that of most other common pests. The life span of these animals is influenced by many factors: genetics, food quality, stress, illness, exercise, housing conditions, and much more. Some long-lived hamsters can live up to 4-5 years, but this is not common.

The average life length is as follows:

• Syrian hamster: 2-3 years
• Dzungarian hamster: 1-2 years
• Campbell’s hamster: 1.5-2 years
• Roborovsky’s hamster: 3-3.8 years
• Chinese hamster: 1.8-3 years

How to improve the quality and longevity of your hamster

Fortunately, there are several things you can do to help your hamster live a healthy and fulfilling life.

Prevention of infections

The simplest thing to remember when caring for your hamster is to wash your hands regularly.

This is important because you can get an infection from the street and not even be aware of it. Hamsters have accelerated metabolism, diseases develop rapidly and are often fatal.

Quality diet

The hamster’s diet should be varied and balanced. It must include grain mixtures, juicy vegetables, and fruits, twigs, as well as small insects, which can be purchased at specialized pet stores.

Protection from injury

Don’t forget to keep your little friend in the cage safe as well. Although they should be a real refuge for hamsters, they often break their paws on wire wheels. Buy only hard-surfaced wheels for your pet. Outside the cage, the hamster can only be in a walking ball, as there is a risk of losing a small animal.

If your hamster has metal or wire surfaces in its habitat, long-haired babies should be trimmed to avoid tangling or snagging.

The hamster’s poor eyesight can play an evil role, the animal can accidentally jump off your hands and get injured. Hamsters are very excitable and do not tolerate stress. If they are scared, they may jump or bite, and they may develop stress-related illnesses. Therefore, it is recommended to communicate with your pet while sitting on the floor or on the couch.

Lack of neighbors

Perhaps the most important is the question of cohabitation. Hamsters should be kept singly unless you are planning to breed. Despite the fact that, for example, adult Syrian hamsters are called cute “teddy bears”, they will resort to violence if they intersect with other rodents.

Safe content

Be careful with your hamster’s bedding, avoid cedar and pine shavings, and opt for odorless paper filler instead. Wood particles can be potentially harmful to small animals as they irritate the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract. In addition, the ubiquitous aromas of fragrant bedding can disorient the hamster, since his vision is poorly developed, so the animals depend on their sense of smell.

Even if your pet lives alone among odorless litters and safe playgrounds, it is important to keep an eye on it throughout its life and contact a rodent specialist – a radiologist in a timely manner.

Keep in mind that proper nutrition and care are essential to a healthy hamster. Closer to old age, the age of 2-3 years, health problems may arise. Moreover, not every veterinarian takes up the treatment of such an exotic animal. A rodent expert will help you compose a diet for your pet, tell you about care and maintenance. You can make an appointment with a radiologist by calling the phone number indicated on the website.

Of the three, you would probably think cancerous tumors would be the worst thing your pet may have but you should know that wet tails are just as bad, if not worse.

To put it simply, wet tails or proliferative ileitis is an infection in the stomach that is caused by a number of bacteria.

It is characterized and named after the ever noticeable wet tail exhibited by hamsters inflicted by this disease which is basically loose stools or diarrhea collected around the tail area.

Stress: The Wet Tail Trigger

While this may happen to hamsters of any age, young hamsters are oftentimes the favorite target of this disease and the reason for this is widely believed to be due to stress.

Young hamsters are known to suffer through a lot of stress especially as they endure the sudden changes they are plunged into once they are separated from their mothers. Add the stresses of transportation, a new home, and environment, as well as improper handling; something is bound to go wrong with the hamster.

Unfortunately, the stress can trigger bacterial overgrowth in the stomach which would then lead to diarrhea and wet tail. Animals and even humans have natural bacteria growing inside the gut in order to help with digestion. Stress, however, causes these bacteria to proliferate and grow.

Other Causes of Wet Tail

Aside from stress and intestinal bacterial overgrowth, how do hamsters get wet tails?

Well, a dirty living environment can certainly increase a hamster’s chance of getting the disease especially when it has been living there for quite some time. An unsanitary environment can expose the hamster to bacteria that could lead to wet tail disease as well.

Another cause of wet tail, albeit a rare one, would be the excessive use of antibiotics which could lead to an upset stomach. However, since hamsters seldom find the need for antibiotics, the wet tail is less likely to be caused by this. But it could still happen.

Wet Tail Could Be Fatal When Left Untreated

Wet tail is a serious illness and what makes it incredibly scary is the fact that when it is left untreated, a hamster’s health could rapidly deteriorate and die in a span of 24 to 48 hours.

Not only that, the wet tail disease can also be quite contagious which isn’t good if you have other hamsters around. When you notice one of your pet hamsters exhibiting signs of a wet tail, remove it immediately from the rest and clean the cages. This is because fecal matter contaminating the food and water can help spread the disease to other hamsters.

Symptoms of Wet Tail in Hamsters

If you think your pet may have caught a wet tail, make sure to watch out for the following symptoms. If your hamster is exhibiting these symptoms, don’t wait for it to get better. Take it to the vet immediately to get treated.

• One of the first and most obvious signs of wet tail disease is the wetness around the animal’s tail which is brought by diarrhea. In some cases, the tail can also become matted or very sticky.
• Watery diarrhea may also spread in puddles around the cage.
• Hamsters suffering from wet tails will smell terribly bad due to watery diarrhea. Since hamsters are self-groomers and rarely need to get cleaned by their owners, smelling bad is an indication that something is wrong.
• Their appearance would be uncharacteristically unruly with ruffled and dirty coats.
• The hamster would also appear to be very weak and lethargic; often finding it asleep or unable to move. Since hamsters are generally active creatures due to their high metabolisms, persisting inactivity may also be one of the biggest signs that something is wrong with your pet.
• If a hamster has the wet tail disease, you may notice a loss in appetite and would refuse to eat or drink. When this happens, it is highly likely that your pet would become dehydrated. Dehydration is one of the biggest causes of death for hamsters with wet tails that is why you should immediately take your pet to a veterinarian for immediate treatment.
• Other symptoms would include a prolapsed anus due to the straining, runny nose, sunken eyes, and discharge coming out of the genitals or ears.
• Blood may also appear on the stools if your pet is suffering from wet tail disease.

Hamster Wet Tail Treatment & Care

There is no other effective treatment for wet tails besides taking your pet to the vet. Meeting up with a veterinarian is important because he or she would be able to administer the necessary antibiotics. Furthermore, a vet would be able to rehydrate your pet when it refuses to drink water or eat.

Below are some ways you can do to help your pet hamster when it is stricken with a wet tail.

• If you think your hamster may be suffering from wet tail disease, schedule an appointment with your vet immediately because doing so would increase your pet’s chances of survival.
• While waiting, it would be a good idea for you to isolate the sick hamster from the healthy ones. Don’t feel bad about doing this since the sick hamster would want to be alone anyway and you’d be able to prevent the disease from spreading.
• While fruits and vegetables would help keep your hamster from dehydration, the water content of these types of food would only aggravate diarrhea further. Try making your hamster eat dry food only during recovery.
• Do not miss out on your scheduled appointment and take your sick hamster to the vet as soon as possible. When it is determined that your hamster’s illness is wet tail disease, the vet would prescribe antibiotics and anti-diarrhea medication that you would need to follow religiously.
• Avoid adding the antibiotics to the food and water because it is highly unlikely that your hamster would want to eat or drink. If your pet is able to drink, you also wouldn’t want to ruin this by adding a different taste to the water.
• Your vet may have to inject the antibiotics if the hamster is too sick. If it is refusing to drink, the vet may also need to inject saline to prevent your pet from dehydrating.
• Allow your pet to be hospitalized if the vet thinks it is necessary. That way, the vet and nurses would be able to monitor your sick hamster closer and make sure it is given the proper medication that it needs.
• Once you and your pet get home, you should give a considerable amount of focus on your sick hamster and make sure that it is given the proper amount of medication at the right time. If you have other hamsters to take care of, ask someone close to you to take care of them in your stead while you devote your time caring for the sick one.
• Your sick hamster would definitely want to keep warm while it tries to recover from the wet tail because these animals get cold easily. Try to make its living conditions as warm as possible and make sure that it is not further stressed out.
• Since the recovery rate for hamsters stricken with wet tails is incredibly low, you should also ready yourself for what may come. If your hamster’s condition does not get any better after 48 hours, then it may not get better at all. Sometimes the best care you can provide for your sick hamster is to help free it from its pain.

Hamsters, marvelous creatures they may be, are still highly susceptible to sickness and disease. Because of this, it is important that you make a routine check on your pet to make sure that it has not caught anything that would be detrimental to its health.

The best way to approach this would be during the time you clean your hamster’s cage because doing so would help you observe your pet’s droppings and see if anything is out of the ordinary.

There are at least 1,750 different species classified as muroids under this superfamily. They live on all continents around the globe, excluding cold Antarctica.

Among the entire superfamily, only gerbils and hamsters have become popular house animals. This happened for a couple of reasons; mainly due to their lack of aggression, small and cute appearance, and easy maintainability.

Most people, however, tend to mention gerbils and hamsters in the same sentence without actually knowing the difference between the two animals. If you’d like to buy a hamster or gerbil but can’t decide which, make sure you keep reading all the way until the end.

Similarities

One thing they have in common is their descendants from the Rodentia order, which gives them the large front incisors, flexible body, and digging claws that are typical in rodents. They both mostly originated from the deserts of Syria and Mongolia, although there are plenty of species that hail from other countries such as South Africa, India, China, and Russia.

Both gerbils and hamsters are omnivores, which means that they’ll consume meat in addition to their regular diet of grains, seeds, and vegetables. They have roughly the same lifespan, with hamsters looking at an average of about 2 – 2.5 years and gerbils at around 3 years.

Based on physical appearance they do look similar, but there are a few slight differences that can help you identify which is which. 

Distinguishing Marks

Get ready to learn about 4 of the biggest differences between gerbils and hamsters.

1. Physical Appearance

At first glance, they look the same. But if you know what to look out for, there are a few key features that set gerbils and hamsters apart.

In general, the size of most hamsters’ body parts is shorter than a gerbil’s. The first thing to catch your attention might be the tail. Hamsters have short and stubby tails while gerbil tails are about as long as their entire body – up to 4 inches long.

A gerbil’s tail is about as long as a rat’s tail, but it does have hair on it and doesn’t look beady and freaky like a rat does. When in doubt, take a gander at the tail.

Next is the size of the animal’s body itself. Hamsters are a bit different in that they have size variations depending on the specific species. Syrian hamsters are the largest and dwarf hamsters are the smallest – ranging from 2 to 4 inches!

Gerbils all have the same body size, regardless of the species. Same as its tail, the body is about 4 inches long on average.

Facial features have some distinctive differences. A gerbil’s nose and face are longer, like a rat or mouse’s. A hamster’s face is round and wide, with the entire head being more ball-like. Gerbils don’t have the chubby cheeks that hamsters do.

Both hamster and gerbil species come in a wide array of colors and patterns, so there isn’t a definitive way for you to tell the difference between the two based solely on markings. One dead giveaway though is the long-haired version of the Syrian hamster known as the teddy bear hamster.

The males have a long mane of hair while the females sport a fluffy coat. There aren’t any long-haired gerbils so if you see a rodent that looks like a small hairy dog, chances are, it’s a hamster.

Interestingly enough, just like the Sphynx cat breed, certain hamsters possess a unique gene that restricts the growth of hair. This, naturally, results in a pretty strange-looking creature. Breeders take advantage of this mutation to breed hairless hamsters as pets for people with allergies to hair and fur.

Gerbils in captivity also have their fair share of mutations and hybrids. The fat-tailed gerbil, also known as Dupras, is smaller than a regular Mongolian gerbil and has a short coat and fat tail. This makes it look very similar to a hamster and you might need to rely on other signs to help you determine the species.

2. Abilities

Both gerbils and hamsters utilize the same accessories – exercise wheels, water bottles, and chew toys. They both chew on things to file down their teeth and build their own beds in a similar fashion.

But gerbils have a special ability that hamsters don’t. Due to its long and strong hind legs, the gerbil is an excellent jumper as well as a runner. It regularly hops around inside its tank and can even jump right out if the lid isn’t securely fastened. Hamster can stand up on its hind legs, but being shorter and fatter, lack the jumping power.

However, hamsters also have a special skill that gerbils lack which is the ability to store and transport food in their cheeks. Hamsters in the wild use these built-in sacs in their mouths called “cheek pouches” as an on-the-go backpack to carry food back to their burrows; safe and stashed away for rainy days.

These pouches have many uses. Hamsters also like to put grains and nuts in the pouches and slowly feed themselves throughout the day by massaging their cheeks with their paws. Mother hamsters have been known to scoop up babies in their cheek pouches when sensing an approaching threat.

Hamsters love to hoard food in their underground dens, so these cheek pouches are definitely a great asset when out on long trips traversing the hot desert sands.

While hamsters leave a strong and pungent odor behind in their cages, gerbils have adapted their kidneys to produce a minimum amount of waste in an effort to conserve body fluids. This makes them much cleaner than hamsters and less smelly. A hamster will need to take a sand bath every couple of days in order to mask its smell and clean its fur.

One of the most common misunderstandings among new gerbil owners is believing that gerbils can live in hamster houses and vice versa. This is incorrect as gerbils need to be able to dig their own tunnel systems, and if placed in a plastic environment, can end up chewing and gnawing through the toxic plastic material.

3. Sleeping Patterns

One of the biggest differences between these two rodents is in their sleeping patterns.

Wild gerbils are diurnal, which means that they are most active during the daytime and sleep at night, like humans. However, gerbils in captivity have been observed to shift their sleeping pattern to correspond to human activity around them.

They like to watch what you’re doing, who’s walking or talking, and what’s going on in the world around them. People that frequently stay up late or work at home on night shifts have reported their gerbils staying awake through the night and sleeping at dawn.

Hamsters, on the other hand, are naturally crepuscular. This means that they sleep during the day and are most active during dusk and dawn. In the wild, a hamster would come out of its burrow at sundown when there are fewer active threats and the temperature is cooler.

After foraging for food and bringing it back to its burrow, it might sleep again until daybreak wherein the same routine would be repeated. Hamsters in captivity can sometimes be more nocturnal than crepuscular.

What does this mean for pet owners? There are pros and cons for both sleeping patterns, but a gerbil might be more desirable if you can’t stand the sound of your pet scampering in its cage in the middle of the night. The sound of its wheel can also keep people up, and hamsters have been known to run all night long!

4. Social Behavior

Knowing about animals’ behavior and understanding how their social life works are perhaps some of the most important deciding factors when choosing a pet. Gerbils and hamsters are no exception.

Hamsters can be solitary and territorial creatures. In the wild, a Syrian hamster lives alone in its burrow, neither seeking nor needing a companion in its day-to-day ordeals. When placed together with any other species of hamster, Syrians have been known to attack and even fight to the death. Thus, two adult hamsters are never recommended to be kept together in one tank.

Even dwarf hamsters which are the smallest species of hamsters exhibit the same behavior. However, it is possible for two dwarf hamsters to live together as long as they are born and raised together. This usually creates a strong bond between the two animals which prevents regular scrapping.

Gerbils on the other hand, lie on the complete opposite end of the spectrum. They are outgoing, friendly, and love having company. Gerbils can live in pairs, groups, with the more truly being the merrier.

According to the president of the American Gerbil Society in Florida, Libby Hanna, gerbils work best together when in pairs. “If you’d like to have multiple gerbils together in one shelter, go for even numbers so there won’t be an odd one out,” she adds.

The number of pets that you keep will affect a lot of things, such as the amount of food provided and the frequency of the feeding schedule.

There are actually 24 species of hamsters but only five breeds which include Syrian hamster, Roborovski hamster, Chinese hamster, Winter White dwarf hamster, and Campbell’s Russian dwarf hamster are mostly kept as pets. These pets can be family-friendly if trained well.

Unlike other animals, the cost of a hamster is inexpensive and it is not hard to maintain. You can purchase one at an affordable price depending on its breed. But aside from the hamster itself, there are still a few costs to take into consideration.

The Hamster Prices

The actual prices of the five breeds commonly sold in the pet market are the following:

• Syrian Hamster

Syrian hamster (also known as “golden hamster” or “teddy bear hamster”) is one of the largest breeds of hamsters. In 1839, it was first discovered by a zoologist named George Robert Waterhouse. It has an average weight of 4 to 6 ounces.

Syrian hamsters are cuddly and easy to handle which makes them an ideal pet. Despite their good personality, they should not be kept with other hamsters because these furry pets are very territorial.

The long-coated Syrian hamsters vary in different colors such as white and cream, cinnamon, brown, grey, and black. You can buy one for an approximate price of $20 depending on the breeder.

• Chinese Hamster

Chinese hamsters originated in the desert of northern China. Being easy to tame, these hamsters are great to handle but they can be aggressive to other hamsters when not introduced while they were young. A Chinese hamster can cost you around $12.99 to $15.99 each.

• Campbell’s Russian Dwarf Hamster

Campbell’s Russian dwarf hamsters are named after the westerner, Charles William Campbell, who first discovered them. These hamsters are very sociable and can be kept with other hamsters if introduced at a young age, unlike Syrian hamsters.

Having the similarity to the appearance of Winter White, these small-bodied hamsters are small enough to pass through the bars of a cage. If you want one, you can purchase it for a price that ranges around $12.99.

• Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamster

Winter white Russian dwarf hamster or Djungarian hamster can be bought for an approximate price of $16.95. These hamsters can only be bought from accredited breeders which can provide pedigree certificates. Some hybrid hamsters from rodent farms are mislabeled as Winter White so make sure to buy the purebred ones.

• Roborovski Dwarf Hamster

Roborovski hamster (also known as “desert hamster” or “Robo”) is a very fast and agile breed which makes it difficult to handle. It has an average weight that ranges from 0.71 to 0.88 ounces. This breed of hamsters rarely nips and comes in different colors like brown and agouti. You can buy a Robo for a price of $12.99.[middle1]

Equipment and Accessories

• Cage

You shouldn’t buy a small cage just because hamsters are small. Make sure that the cage you purchase has a solid base because if not, it can be uncomfortable or might even cause problems with your pet.

A hamster cage’s price usually starts at around $10. Different hamster sizes require different cage sizes as well. For the Syrian hamster, the recommended size by the National Hamster Council is 1000 cm² floor space and 19 cm high cage; while for dwarfs, the minimum is 17cm high with 800 cm²   usable floor space cage. 

• Exercise Wheel

Hamsters need a lot of exercises and an exercise wheel which you can buy for around $4 to $39 is ideal for them. These small pets love running and actually, they can run up to 4 miles a day. Giving them a safe wheel is highly significant as they will spend most of their time there. Open wheels can be dangerous that’s why people prefer buying the ones with a solid surface.

• Bedding and Nesting

Hamsters love burrowing in their bedding so make sure it is made of hardwood shavings. Fluffy fiber bedding is not recommended as the hamster might eat the material. You can try using soft shredded papers or try tearing up tissues into strips.

If you prefer commercial bedding, you can buy products like AlfaPet Aspen Bedding Small Animals Bedding which can cost you around $3.38.

• Feeding Bowl

When it comes to the feeding bowl, a ceramic one is recommended because it is chew-proof. You should not use a human bowl because it can be dangerous for your pet. One ceramic bowl can cost you about $2.5.

• Water bottle

The ideal water bottle you should buy for your hamster is the one appropriate for small animals. You have to deal with leaks but it is better to choose bottles than bowls because they can make a watery mess in your pet’s cage. You can get one for around $4. 

• Grooming Equipment

Like other pets, your hamster will need a little grooming. Use a hamster comb or brush for your pet’s fur to prevent matting and remove debris from the hair. The price of grooming brushes is around $9. You can do the grooming while giving your pet a little amount of treats.

Recurring Costs

Your expenses for a hamster will not end in buying the pet and equipment. There are still few things to consider for the maintenance:

• Food Costs

Hamsters can eat a variety of foods. Some of the commercial foods available for your little pal are the 32-oz Wild Harvest Daily Blend Nutrition Diet for Hamsters and Gerbils which you can buy for $2.38 and the Kaytee Forti Diet Pro Health Healthy Support Diet – Mouse, Rat and Hamster Food BULK – 18 pounds which can cost about $46.17.

Aside from commercial hamster foods, you can give well-cooked meats or live mealworms to your hamster too. Some fruits and vegetables can also be fed to a hamster. Just make sure to balance your pet’s diet according to its nutritional needs.

• Medical Expenses

One of the potential costs of owning a hamster is medical expenses. A trip to the vet for a wellness exam costs around $35. You might also have to bring your hamster to a veterinarian in case it gets ill too. Treatment costs will vary on the health issue your pet has and the veterinary clinic, especially in case of emergency.

Factors That Affect the Price of a Hamster

Several factors can affect the price of a hamster and these include the following:

• Availability of the hamster in your area
• The breed of the hamster you’re going to purchase
• The reputation of the breeder where you will buy the pet from
• Age of the hamster as you buy it
• What’s included in your purchase (freebies)

Hamsters that are kept as a pet maintain their good condition by eating commercial hamster seeds, foods, fruits and vegetables which are rich in nutrients like calcium and folate. The food mixes that indoor hamsters eat are mostly plant-based that’s why some people often mistook them as herbivores.

If it’s so, can hamsters eat mealworms? So, can you feed hamsters with other non-plant foods?

The answer is that being omnivorous animals, hamsters can eat a variety of plant-based and non-plant foods from meats to snacks. But that doesn’t mean that they can eat all kinds of foods.

There are also foods that should never be given to hamsters as they can be toxic and extremely unhealthy for them. Remember to only give the necessary amount of nutrition that a hamster needs for its diet.

Actually, 17% to 19 % of hamsters’ diet should consist of protein which can mostly be found in meats. In addition to that, hamsters in the wild manage to survive by eating both insects and grasses.

Non-Plant Foods for Hamsters

Hamsters eat both meat and plant foods. In fact, the ingredients of some packed hamster foods consist of animal protein like chicken and shrimp. Here is a list of acceptable non-plant foods for your pet:

1. Meats and Animal Protein

Since hamsters are omnivores, you can give meats and animal protein to your pet in moderation. Just make sure that all these foods are thoroughly cooked, either baked or boiled and not seasoned or fried.

• Mealworm and Cricket – Mealworms and crickets can be dry or alive. Alive mealworms are harder to find than the dried ones. To prevent them from biting the hamsters, owners prefer dried mealworms and dried crickets. These types of food are often given as a treat rather than a meal because of the high-fat content.

1 cricket or 2 to 5 worms can be given to a hamster every 1 to 2 days if they are the only protein sources that you’re feeding your hamster. Too much consumption of these foods can give your hamster different health problems.

2. Chicken

Aside from the fact that this food is a great source of protein, chicken is also rich in nutrients like vitamin A and phosphorous. Despite all the benefits, chicken also contains a high level of fats that’s why you should only give the necessary amount for your hamster.

¼ teaspoon of chicken every 1 to 2 weeks is recommended if it is the only meat you are giving to your pet. This amount of serving should be adjusted appropriately if you want to feed a hamster with multiple types of foods.

3. Beef

Beef can be fed to a hamster as long as it is cooked well to make it easier for your pet to digest the food. A quarter teaspoon every week is suggested assuming that it is the only meat you’re giving to the hamster.

Besides protein, beef is known to be a great source of vitamin B12, zinc, and iron which are also part of a hamster’s nutritional requirements.

4. Egg

½ teaspoon of the egg can be given every 1 to 2 weeks to your hamster as long as it is boiled or scrambled.

One egg contains about 7 grams of protein which is high compared to other foods. Raw eggs should never be fed to a hamster because they might contain pathogens like Salmonella which are highly dangerous for hamsters.

5. Pork

Lean and uncured pork are the only ones which you can feed your hamsters. Cured pork can be dangerous because of the preservation and flavoring process it went through which can cause toxicity to hamsters. Once a week or every two weeks, you can give pork to your pet.

6. Shrimp

Shrimps can be given to hamsters only in moderation because they contain too much protein. Too much of this nutrient in a hamster’s body can cause kidney and liver damage.

Aside from that, hamsters can’t digest seafood very well. But every 1 to 2 weeks, you can give a ¼ teaspoon of shrimp to your pet.

7. Fish

Canned fish should not be given to hamsters; only the fresh ones. Plus, the fish should be cooked well. Fish is mostly preferred because it is cheaper compared to other meats like beef.

Aside from the low-calorie content, it is also good for the heart. In spite of the good effects, fish should still not be given in large quantities to avoid problems. A quarter teaspoon every 1 to 2 times a week will be enough if it is the only protein food you give your hamster.

8. Turkey

Turkey meats can be given to hamsters but only a small amount because they can be too acidic for them. Assuming that turkey meat is the only protein food you give to your pet, ¼ teaspoon every 1 to two weeks is enough.

Make sure that you balance your hamster’s diet according to its nutritional needs. Too much meat can lead to several illnesses.

9. Other Snacks And Treats

In giving these snacks, you have to make sure that the ingredients used are safe for hamsters. Unsafe ingredient for hamsters includes avocados, ham, tomato leaves, seasonings and etc. Always check the label to avoid food poisoning or diarrhea.

10. Baby Foods

Baby foods can be a great treat for a hamster as long as they are hamster-safe and they should not contain preservatives. You can try giving baby foods to your hamster especially if it has trouble digesting foods.

This type of food can be a good vitamin supplement for your pet. One teaspoon every 1 or two weeks is the recommended amount.

11. Cheese

Cheese is not really significant in a hamster’s diet but it can be ideal to be given as a treat. In small quantities, you can give it to your pet once a week. It also has to be mild and a low-fat variety like cottage cheese.

12. Peanut butter

Hamsters can enjoy a small amount of peanut butter but only as a spread or mixed in. Do not give it too often as it can cause overweight. Besides that, peanut butter is a sticky food and it can cause problems when hamsters store it in their cheeks.

13. Plain Tofu

Plain tofu can be a great reward to a hamster but you must not leave it in the cage and feed it with your hand, otherwise, it can get moldy and might cause a problem to your pet. One-half teaspoon is recommended every 1 to 2 weeks.

It is important to remember: proper care and feeding are the keys to the good health and the long life of the rodent. Under natural conditions, the animals do not live long, barely reaching one and a half years. The reason for this is a disease, poor nutrition, predators hunting hamsters. A calm home environment, absence of stress, disease prolongs life up to 3 years or more.

The opinion that Dzungarian hamsters can eat everything is wrong. Although they look like mice, they are not nearly as sturdy. Fatties are constantly gnawing, not refusing any food offered. But only high-quality food, the right menu will help to ensure a good mood for hamsters and keep them healthy. When starting a small rodent, the owners need to familiarize themselves with the rules for keeping a dwarf hamster, find out how to feed dwarf hamsters at home.

Basic rules for keeping Dzungarian hamsters
When composing a diet for animals, one should focus on their natural nutritional needs. Life in the steppe conditions adapted them to a low-calorie food. Nutritious, fatty, it will damage the digestive system: the Dzungarian hamster is prone to obesity, and sweets are the cause of diabetes. In a confined space, when the animal does not have the opportunity to move a lot, the diet of the Dzungarian hamster should be composed correctly, avoiding the appearance of excess weight. On the day, a hamster needs only a tablespoon of feed. The activity of the rodent is increased by frequent walks, outdoor games, and, of course, the wheel on which the animals like to run.

Wild individuals feed on seeds and grain. Collecting supplies in a burrow, they are sealed in it, feeding on dry food during the cold period. In spring and summer, the diet is more varied: berries, fruits, vegetables, herbs, insects, and smaller animals are used. The teeth of the Dzungarian hamster grow all their lives, so it is necessary to give them the opportunity to grind them down.

The teeth of the Dzungarian hamster grow all their lives, so it is necessary to give them the opportunity to grind them down.

The metabolism of a small glutton is fast, hamsters eat constantly. Starvation of the Dzungarian hamster should not be allowed, because of this, his health will become worse. But obesity will not do the hamster anything good either.

What products are required and allowed

The well-being of the pet is facilitated by competent content, a carefully selected diet.

What should be given to a Dzungarian hamster at home? Food must contain:

Dry feed (grain mixtures).
Juicy food: greens, vegetables, fruits, herbs, berries.
Animal proteins (lean meat, fish, insects, eggs).
Mineral stone, vitamins, tree branches, shrubs.
Dry food
Grain mixes form the basis of food for Dzungarian hamsters.

What cereals are needed:

corn,
oats,
barley,
wheat,
rye.
Shoots of cereal plants sprouted on the windowsill are useful.

You can give nuts, seeds:

walnuts,
cashews, hazelnuts,
peanut,
flax, sunflower, sesame, pumpkin seeds.
It is recommended to purchase ready-made industrial special brands from the pet store, including the necessary nutrients, the required vitamins, and mineral supplements. They are hard enough that Dzungarian hamsters can grind down teeth that grow throughout their lives. Pay attention to quality products from trusted manufacturers. As in any business, it is better not to buy cheap dry food of economy class.

The ready-made mixtures include peas, rolled oats, oats, corn, nuts, seeds. This package lasts for two months. Can be diluted with buckwheat, lentils, beans, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds.

Fruits, berries
Fresh fruits are given peeled, seeds should be removed – they contain poisonous, deadly substances. It is important to remember that most juicy fruits contain a lot of carbohydrates; it is often unacceptable to feed sweet to your pet. The diet of a dwarf mammal should contain no more than 5% sugars.

Few fruits are allowed. From the age of two weeks, you can give, for example:

Apple – cut into small wedges. Sour, unripe, spoiled fruits cannot be a rodent.
Pears are given a couple of times a week. Frequent use has a laxative effect.
Peaches, cherries, plums – every 7-10 days.
Strawberries, grapes – a limited amount.
Tropical fruits (banana).
The presented list can be supplemented with dried fruits. In winter, it is difficult to provide complete, vitamin-rich foods. It is worth preparing the fruits for future use by freezing or drying them. Dried bananas, dried apricots, figs, raisins, dates, previously soaked in water for 3-4 hours, are introduced into the menu. They are added to food in a small amount due to the high glucose content.

Vegetables

The low sugar content is favorable for feeding the Dzungarian hamster with vegetables. Given twice a week.

What is allowed:

Cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin.
Cabbage (broccoli, cauliflower).
Radish, carrots.
Tomato is rare.
Bulgarian (sweet) pepper – unlimited.
Green beans – young shoots of asparagus, green peas.
Green forage
Greens are collected far from the city limits (it has the ability to absorb harmful substances from the soil, air), highways, washed, dried.

Allowed:

Household herbs (dill, parsley (not allowed for nursing, pregnant women), lettuce, coriander, basil). Celery is limited, it contains a lot of liquid. The tops of carrots, beets will also be useful.
Wild plants (plantain, dandelion, nettle, clover, alfalfa, bamboo shoots).
Succulent feeds often contain pesticides and are thoroughly soaked for several hours. It is better if the greens are grown by the owners on their own, without the use of chemicals that can cause poisoning, cause the death of the pet.

Hay of alfalfa, timothy will be a good source of fiber, necessary for intestinal motility.

Tree branches
It is necessary to place branches of fruit and deciduous trees in the cage. They are required for grinding teeth. Before use, the branches are washed, boiled for about an hour, dried. Conifers cannot be used – they contain essential oils, resins.

What else should be given to Dzungarian hamsters
Other foods are important to maintain a good mood and well-being. These include:

Mineral stone.

Hard treats (dog biscuits) are given every seven days to grind down the incisors. If the teeth become excessively long, they can damage the palate.
Protein food (low-fat cottage cheese, yogurt, kefir, boiled rabbit, turkey, chicken, eggs, low-fat boiled fish, earthworms purchased at the pet store, butterflies, daphnia, Gammarus, grasshoppers, peeled shrimp. A Turkmen cockroach is ideal). Wild-caught insects are often contaminated with microorganisms that cause disease in rodents.
Clean, daily changed water, even if the animal drinks a little. The stagnant liquid is poured out. Filtered spring water will do. Protect the drinker from sunlight, which can cause algae to grow inside the container.
The feeder is washed regularly. Grain, dry food is poured every day. Learning to a new component is carried out gradually, starting with a small crumb. Throw away the leftovers. A small glutton is inclined to stockpile; eating spoiled food is fraught with poisoning.

In case of indigestion, the Dzungarians are given rice broth, which has an enveloping, fastening effect. Babies who find themselves without mother’s milk are supplemented with dairy-free formulas, ordinary cereals soaked in water, vegetable, meat baby puree without adding salt or sugar.

cute hamster
What can not be fed
Some foods used by humans are poisonous to animals. It is impossible to treat everyone without fear for the health of the rodent. The animal is small in size, an insignificant crumb will cause suffocation, intoxication, death.

What is forbidden for a Dzungarian hamster to eat:

Cabbage, beans, bread – cause fermentation, start the processes of putrefaction in the intestines.
Potatoes – Contains a lot of starch.
Spices – irritate the digestive tract.
Mint.
Mushrooms are hard food.
Onions, garlic, sorrel.
Honey, chocolate (rich in theobromine, which affects the cardiovascular system).
Sour berries: sea buckthorn, drumstick.
Raspberry – weakens.
Almonds – contain toxic cyanic, hydrocyanic acid.
Melons, watermelons – often processed with nitrates.
Fatty food.
Bakery products, pasta. Black bread – has high acidity, causes gas formation.
Milk, sour cream, cream, butter.
Sausage, sausages include prohibited soy, starch, spices.
Muesli, breakfast cereals – rich in sugar, harmful flavorings.
Exotic fruits – persimmon – are rich in astringents, tannins that cause constipation. Avocado (mass fat), pineapple, pomegranate, mango, kiwi, orange, lemon (acid).
Pits of apricot, peaches, cherries.
Unpeeled seeds, pasta – injure the cheek pouches of animals.
Brightly colored berries, fruits – cause allergic reactions. Watery eyes, redness of the skin, itching – a reason to refuse the product.
Fatty cheeses – contain an excess of salt, milk sugar – lactose, which is difficult for the stomach to digest.
Spices are rich in essential oils that cause allergies.
It is highly undesirable to treat an animal with food from the table, sweet, spicy, salty, flour, fried, flavored with spices, spices. Food from the refrigerator is prohibited, it must be at room temperature.

What is given to weakened, elderly individuals?
With age, the teeth of the animal become weak, food is difficult to chew. You need special, mashed, ground food. Chopped nuts, crushed peas, rye bread crumbs, rolled oats, baby food, cereals, puree without spices are suitable. It is impossible to refuse the grain component – cereals contribute to the activation, normal activity of the digestive organs. You can offer a grated fruit mixture, add medicines, vitamins to the trough with the prepared product. Human drugs cannot be given – their dosage and composition are destructive.

The pet’s menu needs to be diversified. You cannot constantly feed the same foods. Mono-diets are not allowed. It is good if dry, juicy, protein foods are present in the diet every day.
It is useful to give chamomile broth to sick, elderly pets. If the animal is weak, refuses to eat, the food is ground to a paste consistency, fed, and watered warm from a syringe without a needle.

The nutrition of a small mammal at home is entirely up to you. When living in an apartment, a pet needs a reasonably composed menu that includes vital components. Try to make a crumbs menu that includes a lot of fresh, healthy vegetables.

Treat your pet correctly, at the same time, without relying on his choice. Poisonous plants are laid in the feeder, the baby will eat without a doubt, he is illegible, omnivorous. He will have high-calorie food to taste. The pet will be happy to eat sweets. Remember: in nature, rodents do not receive such food, which means that there is no benefit in it.

The bowl is selected in accordance with the nutritional needs of the animal, it should be small, not allowing overfeeding, made of ceramic. This will not allow it to be gnawed or choked on parts of the dishes.

There is controversy over the need for various products. These are, for example, beets and radishes. In case of doubts about the usefulness, potential risk, fears for the existence of a pet, it is better to refuse, not to conduct experiments. There are many more useful and useful products.

If the animal was bought for children, adults should immediately explain to the kids the rules of keeping, proper feeding of the pet. Play with the animal, keep in constant contact. Then the life of your tiny funny friend will be joyful, happy, long.

The Syrian hamster has a thirteen-centimeter stocky body with short legs, medium rounded ears, a short muzzle, beady-shaped eyes, and a small tail that can hardly be seen under its thick coat. The rodent’s belly is light, and its back has an ocher-gray or brownish-gray color. The hind legs of the animal have five toes, while the front legs have four toes and a rudiment of the fifth. The rodent lives in hallow burrows lead an active life at night. The Syrian hamster uses convenient cheek pouches to transport materials for building the nest and food.

For the first time in 1797, the Russell brothers wrote an article about the Syrian hamster. This rodent species has been considered extinct since 1839 after Waterhouse made their first scientific description. On April 30, 1930, after a long search, the zoologist Israel Aharoni discovered a hole in which eleven newborn rodents were together with the female, he transported them to the University of Judea. Of
all the individuals brought in, three males and one female survived. After unsuccessful attempts to find other representatives of this species in the wild, Ahoroni made a related mating of the female with one of his brothers, who became the progenitors of this species in captivity. Their descendants in 1938 first entered the territory United States of America. Simultaneously with this event, pundits concluded that the Syrian hamsters were completely extinct in the wild.

However, this turned out not to be the case. The Syrian hamster lives on crops, in meadow steppes and foothill steppe landscapes, which are located on the territory of Iran, Western Asia, Turkey, the Balkans.

Syrian hamster – maintenance and care

Hamsters of this species are best accommodated in a cage with a deep plastic tray and metal rods, and an aquarium
made of organic or regular glass. The dimensions of the cage for the animal must be at least 30 × 40 cm, and the minimum aquarium height is 30 cm.

As for bedding, it is most optimal to use large dry sawdust, the layer thickness of which should be about 3-4 cm. For long-haired representatives of the species, it is not advisable to lay sawdust, as they can entangle the wool. Purchase a special natural wood filler by pairing it with colorless paper towels.
Pieces of paper, hay, and straw work well for building nests.

Inside the cage, you need to put a house where the animal will hide and rest. It is also important to take care of your pet’s active life in order to avoid weight and well-being problems.
In addition to the food bowl and drinker, given the spirited nature of the Syrian hamsters, a large jogging wheel, perches, and a
variety of obstacles must be placed in the cage.

Cleaning is necessary every 4-5 days. The drinker and bowl should be rinsed daily. Once a month, be sure to wash the cage and
all the “furniture” of the hamster with a special detergent that contains bleach.

The content was translated from Syrian hamster. Great thanks to the author!

Hamster Supplies Checklist (With Prices)

Here is our list of hamster supplies to purchase before bringing your new pet home. Once you have everything below, you’re all set!

Essentials are:

• Suitable hamster cage (more on this later)
• Water bottle
• Toys for enrichment (climbing frames, tunnels, wheels, etc.)
• Chew toys
• Exercise wheel
• Exercise ball
• High-quality food mix
• Suitable bedding and substrate material
• Hamster home(s) (nesting area)
• Food bowl(s)
• Hamster treats
• Non-toxic cleaning products
• Fresh fruit and vegetables

Non-Essential:

• Gnawing blocks or sticks
• A ladder or climbing frame
• Plastic tubes
• Litter scoop
• Travel cage
• Sand bath & hamster bathing sand

Choosing Your New Hamster

There are a few different types of hamsters, all of which grow to different sizes and have slightly different care requirements. If you want to keep two or more hamsters, you’ll want to keep a species of dwarf hamster. The larger Syrian hamster must be kept alone.

Dwarf hamsters are often more energetic and entertaining to watch although that does make them slightly harder to handle (it just takes some practice).

Bedding & Substrate

A substrate is a material used to cover the bottom of your hamster cage. This is usually wood shavings or some form of soft material such as CareFresh. A substrate will keep your cage clean, absorb odor/waste and provide a soft surface for your pet.

Hamster bedding is the nesting material used by your hamster to create a comfortable place to sleep. Bedding is usually a softer material than the substrate and will be kept in the hamster home/hide within your cage.

There is a huge range of different substrate and bedding materials out there. Sawdust is not recommended as it can cause breathing issues in your pet (due to the dust sawdust creates). We recommend going for a reputable brand and using a material such as wood shavings for the substrate with a material like CareFresh for bedding.

Hamsters are more likely to be frightened if they were not handled at the pet store where you bought them from.

Although they usually don’t carry rabies, bites from dwarf hamsters can still cause pain and infection. Owners must be aware of every detail about what makes their pets bite and what’s the right way to tame them.

Reasons Why Dwarf Hamsters Bite

Dwarf hamsters don’t bite without a reason. As mentioned, usually, biting is caused by the feeling of being in danger. As an owner, you have to make adjustments too. The most common causes of this behavior in hamsters are the following:

• Their form of defense

Naturally defensive, dwarf hamsters protect themselves from invaders and predators. They act that way whenever they feel that something is a threat; even their owners or other people. Putting your finger into their cages can make them bite you especially if you put it near their face because they are territorial.

• They are afraid

Some people disturb a sleeping hamster which causes it to get startled and end up biting the person who woke it up. Some even intentionally startle the hamsters which makes them scared. Like any other type of hamsters, they respond to threats as part of their instincts.

• You’re mistaken as food

Because of poor vision, hamsters rely more on their sense of smell. They distinguish things through scent. A person’s hand can smell like the food at times so the hamster thinks it is food that is supposed to be eaten.

• Biting is part of Dwarf Hamster’s traits

Dwarf hamsters are not that friendly so biting can be part of their personalities. What’s worse is that their bites, if not properly taken care of, can even lead to diseases like Tularemia, Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis, and Hantavirus which are known to be caused by rodents.

One good thing is that they are unlikely to spread rabies because like most hamsters, dwarf hamsters are mostly kept as indoor pets.

Things to Do If a Dwarf Hamster Bites You

To prevent having infections or severe conditions because of a dwarf hamster’s bite, you must know the first aid. Aside from saving yourself, you will also be able to help other people. Plus, it can help you avoid going to the hospital needlessly, thereby reducing your medical expenses.

Follow these steps to treat a hamster’s bite:

• If a dwarf hamster is still biting you, gently remove it. Do not shake the hamster to remove its teeth from your skin.
• Wash your wound with mild soap and warm water.
• Apply an anti-bacterial cream or solution.
• Cover the wound with a bandage.
• Check and clean the wound daily.
• If there are signs of infection, see a doctor so that the bite can be further assessed.
• You’ll likely be prescribed with antibiotics so make sure to take them on time.

Prevent Dwarf Hamster from Biting

A hamster that just got transferred to a new home usually gets scared and uncomfortable of its new environment. Taming it can be time-consuming but you have to be patient to gain its trust. Below are some useful tips that can help you handle your hamster well without getting a bite:

• Slowly introduce yourself to a dwarf hamster if you’re a new owner.
• Let your hamster adjust; don’t touch it as soon as you take it home.
• Dwarf hamsters are deep sleepers so don’t wake it up to play.
• Hold your hamster properly. Make sure you’re not holding it too tight.
• Don’t touch a hamster without washing your hands first.
• You can also try putting gloves while playing with a hamster.
• Avoid startling a hamster by making it aware of your presence first before touching it.
• Be friendly to your pet.
• Do not wear heavy perfumes when you’re going to hold your pet.
• Never grab a hamster.
• Choose the best time to play with your dwarf hamster.
• Make sure the hamster’s surrounding doesn’t cause stress.
• Give them treats so they will feel at ease with you.

You should always take precautions in caring for your dwarf hamster. As much as possible, make sure it is comfortable and stress-free. Training is also advised to avoid undesirable behaviors.

Training Advice

Young hamsters are easier to train than old ones. Since they are crepuscular animals, training should be done at dawn when they are most active.

Use a gentle voice when training your dwarf hamster because loud voices make it scared. Make it familiar with your scent too by washing your hand and gently touching the hamster. Never use punishment-based training. Instead, use treats as a reward for a good response from your pet.

Teach your hamster a “no” command by slightly tapping its nose in order to know that biting is bad behavior. Only use positive reinforcement. Once your dwarf hamster is comfortable with you, you can already carry it in your hands.